Every year, the night before the first day of
school, I make my son's favorite foods for dinner. He always chooses salmon for dinner. And this year, blueberry pie for dessert.
Usually, I take the easy way out and buy blueberry pie from
Whole Foods. I say it's because they make a good pie that we all like. But the truth is that pie crust scares me. Cutting the butter until the pieces are just the right size. Not overworking the dough. Rolling it out. And then, somehow getting it into the pie dish.
Then last week the New York Times ran a piece about fruit
galette. That's the same as a crostata, which I prefer to call it, because it's
sounds more casual and less perfect. The article described the crostata as a
good entry point into pie making. You still have to make dough. But you don't
have to roll it out perfectly. Or get it into a pie dish. In fact, it's
supposed to look rustic (read: messy).
So I set out to make a crostata. On a day that was 90
degrees and humid, no less. It took some time and effort. But it wasn't
as hard as I'd imagined. And it turned out even better than the Whole Foods version — tasty, flaky, delicious. And homemade.
Start with the dough. Lightly whisk together the egg and
heavy cream.
Then measure the dry ingredients. This recipe gives weights for the dough ingredients. That's a much more accurate way to measure, and it seriously increases the chances of success.
Then measure the dry ingredients. This recipe gives weights for the dough ingredients. That's a much more accurate way to measure, and it seriously increases the chances of success.
Add cold butter to the food processor and pulse until you
have chickpea-size pieces of butter. (The butter pieces will look larger than
you expect.) Don’t over process.
Drizzle the egg/cream mixture and lemon juice and zest over
the flour/butter mixture. Pulse just until the mixture starts to come together,
but stop pulsing before it becomes a big ball of dough.
Put the dough on the counter and shape it into a disk. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and
chill for at least a couple of hours.
When the dough is done chilling, place it on a lightly
floured piece of parchment paper. Roll it into a 12-inch
circle. You should still see large chunks of butter in the dough. The butter will help keep the dough nice and flaky when it bakes. Don’t worry about making it look perfect, anything vaguely resembling a circle is fine. Transfer the dough (with the
parchment paper) to a baking sheet and put it back in the fridge while you make
the filling.
For the filling, combine the fruit, sugar, lemon juice
and zest (if you’re using it) and cornstarch. Yes, that’s it.
Brush the top of the
dough with any leftover egg/cream mixture. (I forgot to save the rest of mine
so I used an extra egg and some cream for this.) Then sprinkle with sugar. A
larger grained sugar like turbinado is nice for sprinkling, if you have it.
Bake for about 35 to 45 minutes. The fruit will bubble and
the juices will thicken. And the pastry will be golden brown and beautiful.
Blueberry Crostata
Recipe from The New York Times
Ingredients
For the dough:
1 ⅓ cups/165 grams all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp/15 grams sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
1 large egg
Heavy cream, as needed
1 stick/113 grams unsalted butter, cut into big pieces
2 tsp lemon juice
½ tsp grated lemon zest (optional)
3 cups summer fruit of your choice (berries, stone
fruit, figs), sliced or cubed if necessary
½ cup to 3/4 cup/100 to 150 grams sugar, to taste
Pinch of salt
Juice and grated zest of
1/2 lemon (optional)
3 to 4 Tbsp/25 to 35 grams cornstarch
Make the Crust:
1. In a measuring cup, lightly beat the egg, then add just
enough cream to get to 1/3 cup. Lightly whisk the egg and cream together.
2. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, or in a
large bowl, pulse or mix together flour, sugar and salt.
3. Add butter to flour mixture and pulse or use a pastry
cutter or your fingers to break up the butter. If using a food processor, do
not over-process; you need chickpea-size chunks of butter. (This is important. You want to be able to
see large chunks of butter in the flour.)
4. Drizzle the egg mixture (up to 1/4 cup) over the dough
and pulse or stir until it just starts to come together but is still mostly
large crumbs. Mix in lemon juice and zest if using.
5. Put dough on lightly floured counter and pat it
together to make one uniform piece. Flatten into a disk, wrap in plastic and
chill for 2 hours, or up to 3 days.
6. Heat the oven to 400 degrees.
7. Roll the dough out to a 12-inch round (it can be
ragged). Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and chill
while preparing the filling. (I rolled
out the dough directly on the parchment paper. That made it easier to transfer
to the baking sheet.)
Make the filling:
1. Toss
together fruit, all but a tablespoon of sugar, the salt, the lemon juice and
zest, and the cornstarch. Use more cornstarch for juicy stone fruit and less
for blueberries, raspberries and figs.
2. Pile
fruit on the dough circle, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border. Gently fold the pastry
over the fruit, pleating to hold it in (sloppy is fine).
3. Brush
pastry generously with leftover egg and cream mixture. Sprinkle remaining sugar
on the crust. (If you have a larger
grained sugar, like turbinado, use that for sprinkling.)
4. Bake
for 35 to 45 minutes, until the filling bubbles up vigorously and the crust is
golden.
5. Cool
for at least 20 minutes on wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes one 9-inch crostata.